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Girraween National Park, QLD: Part 6.

November 7, 2015, 9:24 pm
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Bald Rock Creek.
The morning before we left Girraween National Park, I set out to try to get some better photos of the birds that frequent sections of the Bald Rock Creek Track and The Junction Track. Splendid Fairy Wrens frequent the Information Centre Carpark and Eastern Rosellas are a bright flash of colour in the trees. When I saw the Chestnut-rumped Heathwren, on our first day, I didn't get a chance to take a photo so I was hoping to get one this time but unfortunately I didn't see any Heathwren again. I'm still not entirely satisfied that I've captured the glamorous Yellow-tufted Honeyeater or the forever moving Dusky Woodswallow clearly enough.
Superb Fairy-wren and Eastern Rosella
Dusky Woodswallow
Yellow-tufted Honeyeater
We were sad to say goodbye to Girraween National Park but we know we will return. It is an ideal location for quick overnight stops, only 9 km off the New England Highway and we'll no doubt come back for another longer trip. After all we haven't done the walk to Mount Norman via Castle Rock nor the Sphinx or Turtle Rock Tracks.

It didn't take long to pack up the new van and we were heading north. We called into Lancuba's Fruit Mart at Applethorpe for a box of delicious fresh and crunchy Pink Lady Apples. There is ample room to pull up on the side of the highway for caravans.



After a quick stop outside Victoria Park in Warwick for an amenities break we were off to the bakery in Aratula. The bakery was doing a brisk trade as usual and we had to drive past it before we found a spot to pull up. I ran back for takeaway baked goodies and coffee and we continued on to the small town of Warrill View. We tend to pull in here when going north and at Fassifern Reserve when going south. The rest area in Warrill View does not allow camping and has two areas. Take the southern entrance if you are towing as there is plenty of room to pull up and a loop to re-enter the Cunningham Highway. There are covered picnic tables and a walk bridge across a small creek to the toilets, playground and more picnic tables. If you are not towing you might prefer to pull up in front of the toilets and playground on Rosewood-Warrill View Road. When I crossed the foot bridge I was attacked by a Magpie so on the way back I carried an old dead branch over my head and it left me alone.


Warrill View Rest Area

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Kenilworth and Charlie Moreland Camping Area, QLD.

November 15, 2015, 5:37 pm
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We decided to do a quick camping trip to Charlie Moreland Campground to check out the redevelopment of the site and test a few mod cons we've installed in the van.  The campground is about 2 hours drive north of the Brisbane CBD. If you are towing or driving a large rig avoid the Obi Obi Road. We went further north and took the Eumundi-Kenilworth Road instead.

On the way we dropped into the charming village of Kenilworth. The Kenilworth Cheese Factory has a store with a sample station to help you make your choices from their large range of cheeses. They also make yogurt and mousse and sell sauces, jams and condiments.


Kenilworth Cheese Factory
There is a really nice park with toilets, picnic tables, BBQ's and an excellent children's playground with a flying fox, opposite the factory.


The Kenilworth Showground is very popular with RV's and costs $16 per night for two people with power and water. There are several cafes in the main street as well as a grocery store and bakery.

The turnoff for Charlie Moreland Campground is about 7 km south of Kenilworth. Just past the turnoff (going south) is Little Yabba Creek Park, a free 24 hour rest area. Fig Tree Walk is opposite the rest area and is worth a visit. The walk is a 780 m, Grade 1 circuit. We did not call in this time as it was raining and we have done the walk a couple of times previously.

Charlie Moreland Campground is on Sunday Creek Road about 5 km from the turnoff. The road is unsealed but wide except for a one-way bridge and a concrete causeway just before the campground. As this is a Queensland National Park managed campground it is necessary to book online before arriving. There is no phone or internet reception at the campground but there is a pay phone at the Ranger Station on the way in. Standard NPRSR fees apply of $5.95 per adult, children under 5 yrs are free and there is a family fee of $23.80 for 1-2 adults and 6-7 children (up to 8 people in total). 

Concrete causeway just before the entrance to Charlie Moreland Campground.
The camping area is grass and dirt with no designated sites and is available for tents, vans, camper trailers and motor homes. The campground has been redeveloped in recent times and now contains four amenities buildings with flushing toilets.There are non-potable water taps and fire rings (BYO wood) scattered throughout the campground. Dogs and generators are not permitted. There are no showers or bins provided. A large enclosed horse paddock is at the back of the campground. There is a new Day Use Area with picnic tables, BBQ's and access to an amenities block. 

Charlie Moreland Campground.
The newly developed Charlie Moreland Day Use Area
In the middle of the campground a large fig tree was in fruit which attracted quite a few birds.

Australian Figbird, male.
Wompoo Fruit-Dove
Topknot Pigeon
On the first afternoon we walked the Piccabeen Circuit (3.5 km, Class 3) and combined it with the Little Yabba Creek Circuit (1.5 km, Class 3).

Native Hibiscus and Blackbean trees were in flower on the banks of Little Yabba Creek. There are also quite bad infestations of Castor Oil Plant, Scotch Thistle and Mexican Prickly Poppy (Goat Weed).
Native Hibiscus Hibiscus heterophyllus
Black Bean Tree flowers Castanospermum australe
Mexican Prickly Poppy Argemone mexicana
Spangled Drongo and Lewin's Honeyeater.
At the first crossing of the creek, giant rocks had been dislodged by rushing water but it was still possible to cross over carefully without getting your feet wet.


We saw a large variety of birds on the Little Yabba Creek section of the walk but not many on the Piccabeen Circuit. We could hear Paradise Rifflebirds and Catbirds calling but we didn't see them. Due to the overcast and wet conditions the light was poor and our bird photos didn't come out very well once we crossed the creek. See bird list for the trip below. We were excited to see Noisy Pittas three times but they weren't hanging around to have their photos taken and we only got 2 very blurry photos.

Little Yabba Creek is worth a closer look. We saw several types of small fish including Pacific Blue-eye P.signifer, a small eel and lots of water beetles. We heard the plop of a turtle returning to the water from a log. 
Water Boatman and Water Beetles
We saw several circles in the creek which are spawning nests created by native Eel-tailed catfish (Thanks to the excellent facebook group Australian Marsupials, Reptiles, Amphibians, Invertebrates and Plants for making sure I got my facts straight).

Abandoned Eel-tailed catfish Tandanus tandanus spawning nest. 11/2015
We took this photo of Little Yabba Creek in October 2011. The fish is inside the ring.

Eel-tailed catfish in spawning ring 10/2011
We saw several brightly coloured flies which I think are Bristle Fly zosterops (but I'm happy to stand corrected if there are any fly experts reading this). I love the patches of a small green plant along the edges of the track.

There were a few rain showers about and unfortunately, we both managed to get leeches. Next day we were more careful and sprayed the bottoms of our trousers and the tops of our shoes with "Off" which seemed to deter them.

Back at camp a Kookaburra was keeping a close eye on what we were cooking for dinner.
Perhaps Kookaburras like Kenilworth cheese too.
We went for a night walk and discovered the campground was alive with very small pademelons but we didn't spot any night birds. We did hear a Southern Boobook calling in the early morning.

We hadn't managed to see any frogs on the walks but in the morning we had a nice surprise when we found a Stony Creek Frog hiding out on the toilet roll in one of the amenities blocks. 

Stony Creek Frog Litoria wilcoxii
The pademelons were retreating into the bush.

Red-necked Pademelons
We took another walk around Little Yabba Creek Circuit.  We were hoping to get better photos of the Noisy Pittas but we didn't see any in the morning. We did however see a male Paradise Rifflebird which proved difficult to photograph in the poor light but was very exciting to observe. They are iridescent green and this one gave us good views of its bright yellow mouth. 
Paradise Riflebird, male.
There is also a shared walk from the campground to the top of Mount Allan (about 9 km, Class 4). The track is open to horses and mountain bikes as well as logging vehicles so care should be taken when walking. We have walked this track in the past and it is a steady uphill slog so fitness is required. The reward is that you can climb the stairs of the 9.6 m fire tower; something that is becoming rarer these days.The 360 degree views from the top are excellent and we have enjoyed a picnic lunch on the top of the tower in the past (we love our picnics).

Mount Allen Fire Tower 9/2012

Birds seen over two days at Charlie Moreland campground: Australian King Parrot, Brown Cuckoo-Dove, Topknot Pigeon, Wompoo Fruit-Dove, Spangled Drongo, Eastern Pale-headed Rosella, Jacky Winter, Lewin's Honeyeater, Paradise Riflebird, Laughing Kookaburra, Sacred Kingfisher, Australian Magpie, Noisy Pitta, Australian Logrunner, Rufous Fantail, White-browed Scrubwren, Brown Gerygone, Brown Thornbill, Bell Miner, Noisy Miner, Eastern Whipbird, Channel-billed Cuckoo, Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo, Eastern Yellow Robin, Pale-yellow Robin, Golden Whistler, Australasian Figbird, Pheasant Coucal.
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Return to Charlie Moreland Camping Area, Imbil State Forest, Kenilworth, QLD.

December 3, 2015, 8:21 pm
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Little Yabba Creek near the causeway into Charlie Moreland Campground is a popular swimming area.
We had planned a two week trip into northern New South Wales but sometimes things don't go to plan. National Parks NSW closed one of the parks we were going to stay at and put fire bans in place due to the early onset of very hot weather and high fire danger. A series of thunderstorms were forecast and with the high likelihood of destructive winds, rain and hail we reluctantly decided that a new plan was prudent. In the end we decided to go back to Charlie Moreland campground, near Kenilworth. We had only been there the week before but we were keen to spend more time there. For details about the campground please refer to our previous post here. With temperatures in the mid 30's we choose a nice shady spot.


A heavy storm with hail went through the campground the night before our arrival. When we went for a walk on the first afternoon we discovered that the crossings over Little Yabba Creek were both underwater. However, by the next morning the water had started to recede.
We only had a fleeting glance at a Noisy Pitta on the walk this time but we did see a beautiful 2.5 meter Carpet Python crossing the path so perhaps the Pittas had fled to avoid becoming python breakfast.

The colours of this Carpet Python are quite good camouflage and I nearly walked right into it.

There were a number of butterflies flying about and we had our first sighting of a Four-barred Swordtail. As usual I couldn't get any photos of the Blue Triangles or Glasswings which flit about too fast for me.

Four-barred Swordtail Protographium leosthenes
Yellow Albatross (female) Appias paulina and Monarch (male) Danaus plexippus
With more time and better light on this trip we saw a few more birds than on our trip the week before. See bird list below. The highlight was seeing a male Paradise Rifflebird up close on three separate occasions. The only female Paradise Rifflebird we saw was high up in a Black Bean tree feeding on the flowers. We also had good views of Rose-crowned Fruit Doves high up in the trees.

Front and rear views of the same Paradise Rifflebird on a large tree branch.


Female Paradise Rifflebirds look entirely different to the males.
The Topknot Pigeons and Woompoo Fruit-Doves were no longer feeding at the fig tree in the campground but Brown Cuckoo-Doves were feeding in a Cheese Tree.
Brown Cuckoo-Dove and closeup of the Cheese Tree.
Black-faced Monarchs were common but we didn't see any Spectacled Monarchs which are also found in this area.
Golden Whistler and Black-faced Monarch.
The call of the Eastern Whipbird resounds around the bush but they can be hard to get a photo of so we were pleased when this immature bird showed itself.

Eastern Whipbird, immature.
Red-necked Pademelons are abundant and as cute as ever.

Red-necked Pademelons.
One of the special things about roadtrips is meeting fellow travelers. Often we are the first out and about and we have the trails to ourselves. On this trip we found ourselves bumping into fellow nature lovers on our early morning and late afternoon walks. It wasn't long before we were sharing observations and knowledge and enjoying the company of like-minded new friends. When observing wildlife we tend to creep about stealthily so it was a new experience for us to walk with Lyn who liked to call in birds with clever imitation calls and whistles.


Birds seen on this trip at Charlie Moreland campground: Australian King Parrot, Brown Cuckoo-Dove, Topknot Pigeon, Wompoo Fruit-Dove, Rose-crowned Fruit-Dove, Emerald Dove, Spangled Drongo, Eastern Pale-headed Rosella, Crimson Rosella, Lewin's Honeyeater, Scarlet Honeyeater, Paradise Riflebird, Regent Bowerbird, Laughing Kookaburra, Australian Magpie, Pied Currawong, Grey Butcherbird, Torresian Crow, Noisy Pitta, Australian Logrunner, Rufous Fantail, White-browed Scrubwren, Variegated Fairy-wren, Weeble, Brown Thornbill, Red-browed Treecreeper, Bell Miner, Noisy Miner, Eastern Whipbird, Channel-billed Cuckoo, Black-faced Cuckoo-shrike, Glossy Black-Cockatoo, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Eastern Yellow Robin, Pale-yellow Robin, Grey Shrike-thrush, Golden Whistler, Australasian Figbird, Black-faced Monarch, Willie Wagtail, Pheasant Coucal. Heard many Green Catbird calls.


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Cedar Grove Camping Area, Amamoor State Forest, QLD.

December 16, 2015, 2:28 am
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Cedar Grove Camping Area, Amamoor State Forest.
There are two campgrounds at Amamoor State Forest: Cedar Grove Camping Area and Amamoor Creek Camping Area. I have covered Amamoor Creek Camping Area in a previous blog here. Standard Qld National Park fees apply and bookings need to be made online before arrival. Cedar Grove camping area is about an hour and a half drive north-west of the Sunshine Coast and Amamoor Creek camping area is another 20 minutes further along Amamoor Creek Road. Amamoor Creek road is an unsealed road suitable for 2WD vehicles. After heavy wet weather, water can flow over the causeways and the road may be closed. Cedar Grove Camping Area is an open grassy area with no designated sites and is suitable for tents, caravans, camper trailers and motor homes. There are flushing toilets, fire pits and hiking trails. There are no longer any showers here. There is no phone reception but a pay phone is placed at the entrance. Domestic pets and generators are not permitted. However, dogs are permitted at Amamoor Creek Camping Area.    

Before reaching the camping grounds the drive takes you through the small village of Amamoor.
Historic Amamoor Station, Amamoor.
The Amama Picnic Area is on Amamoor Road on the way to the campgrounds and it is worth planning to spend some time there. There is a carpark at the picnic area suitable for cars but if you take the first entrance immediately before the picnic area (coming from Amamoor) there is a small loop road suitable for towing rigs. The picnic area has toilets, tables and wood BBQ's in a lovely tree studded area adjoining Amamoor Creek. A 300 m loop walk starts from the picnic area and proceeds along the creek bank. There used to be a platypus viewing platform here but it was washed away in heavy flooding. However, it is still easy to view the creek from the walk. Unfortunately, we have never seen any platypus at Amama but we have not spent time there in the early morning or late afternoon which is probably when they are most active.
Amama Picnic Area and the trailhead for the Amama Walking Track.
Immediately across the road is the entrance to Amama Walk; a 1.5 km class 4 walk. We did not do the walk this trip but, if my memory serves me correctly, the first half is uphill so some fitness is required.

Cedar Grove Camping Area.
It was fairly hot weather on this December trip but there is plenty of room to find a spot with some shade. There is a waterhole at the campground that is popular on hot days.

Amamoor Creek waterhole at Cedar Grove camping area.
There were a few cattle roaming around the campground from time to time but one day we returned to the campground to find quite a large herd. Our lightweight ensuite seemed to have come off second best from an encounter with a cow. We never did recover one of the tent pegs and can only hope the cow didn't end up with it stuck in it's hoof. We noticed that both the cattle and goannas liked to check out the fire rings.


Australasian Figbirds and Woompoo Fruit Doves were easy to spot feeding in the campground. Spangled Drongos were present in large numbers. Every afternoon we enjoyed the spectacle of White-throated Needletails soaring overhead. 

Spangled Drongo
Wompoo Fruit Dove
Whenever we can, we camp next to the edge of campgrounds so that we are close to the forest. At Cedar Grove we had Eastern Yellow Robins, Spectacled Monarchs and Green Catbirds as our neighbours.

Spectacled Monarch and Eastern Yellow Robin.
We went for a walk along Amamoor Creek Road and were rewarded with sightings of Leaden Flycatchers but the road is surprisingly busy and after being enveloped in dust by the local school bus we retreated.

Leaden Flycatcher
I finally got a photo of our nemesis the Blue Triangle. For the first time, I also managed to get a photo of an Evening Brown with it's wings open. We saw large numbers of Glasswings, Large Grass-yellows and Monarchs when we were on the walks.

Blue Triangle Graphium sarpedon
Two photos of the same Evening Brown Melanitis leda
Unfortunately, the whole area is under threat from the Cats Claw vine, an invasive weed from South America. 
Cats Claw Vine smothering a tree. Cutting the vine is one method of combating it's spread.

There are two walks starting from the campground. The Rainforest Walk has three entrances from the camping area and the Cedar Grove Hiking Trail leads off the Rainforest Walk near the waterhole.

Rainforest Walk: 1 km loop, Class 3.
Despite seeing very few birds on this walk we did it several times on our camping trip because it is a pleasant forest walk alongside Amamoor Creek. 



Cedar Grove Hiking Trail: 4.6 km loop, Class 4. 
There is an advisory sign to take water and that fitness is required on this hike. The initial 1 km is a steady uphill hike. The habitat changes throughout this walk from rainforest, to gumtrees along a ridge and then alongside a Hoop Pine Plantation. 

There were lots of skinks on the forest floor.
Seeds on the forest floor.
Towards the end of the walk the trail divided into three and we had no idea which track to take. We suspect we may have inadvertently taken a shortcut and ended up wading across the creek and scrambling up a cattle trail before arriving back at the campground. At least our sense of direction is good. 

Birds we saw on this trip: Australian Brush Turkey, Pacific Black Duck, Cattle Egret, Brown Cuckoo-Dove, Wompoo Fruit-Dove, Sulpher-crested Cockatoo, Laughing Kookaburra, Forest Kingfisher, White-throated Treecreeper, Red-backed Fairy-wren, White-browed Scrubwren, Large-billed Scrubwren, Brown Gerygone, Noisy Miner, Lewin's Honeyeater, Scarlet Honeyeater, Leaden Flycatcher, Eastern Yellow Robin, Golden Whistler, Little Shrike-thrush, Spaectacled Monarch, Magpie Lark, Spangled Drongo, Black-faced Cuckoo-shrike, Olive-backed Oriole, Australasian Figbird, Australian Magpie, Pied Currawong, Green Catbird, Red-browed Finch, White-throated Needletail.
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Emu Creek Camping Area, Benarkin State Forest, QLD.

January 17, 2016, 3:18 am
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Benarkin State Forest is about 160 km north-west of Brisbane. There are two campgrounds: Clancy Camping Area and Emu Creek Camping Area. From the entry turnoff on the D'Aguilar Highway to the camping areas there is 16 km of unsealed road which is windy and steep in places. Personally, I was glad it wasn’t raining and that we were driving a 4WD and towing an offroad van. We saw a few goanna’s sunning themselves in the middle of the road but they quickly moved away as we approached.


Emu Creek Camping Area, Benarkin State Forest
The first campground is Clancys Camping Area where dogs are permitted and it is about a further 3 km to Emu Creek Camping Area, where pets are not permitted. We booked into Emu Creek before arriving. It is necessary to pre-book the campsites, which are the standard QLD National Parks fee of $5.90 per adult per night, as there is no phone reception at the campground. There is one amenities block with two toilets and a cold shower cubicle in both the men’s and women’s. The women’s shower cubicle also had a large hook if you prefer to hang your own bag of warm water. We did wonder how the amenities would cope on Saturday night as we had noticed that there were bookings for 50 people. The Day Use Area adjoining the campground which also has toilets took some of the load. Both amenities blocks have a tap on the rain water tank but there are no other water taps available in the campground. The Day Use Area has tables and wood BBQ's and there are fire pits scattered throughout the campground.


Emu Creek Day Use Area, Benarkin State Forest
We set up in a shady area with a relaxing view of the creek and were pleased to find that Scaly Lorikeets frequented the trees around our campsite. They were present in large numbers yet we didn’t see a single Rainbow Lorikeet. Laughing Kookaburras and Noisy Miners also entertained us with their antics.


Scaly Lorikeet
In the afternoon, we explored the campground and wandered down to the creek. We startled six Channel-billed cuckoos in the Day Use Area and during our stay we saw dozens of Channel-billed Cuckoos.

Channel-billed Cuckoo
The days were hot so many campers enjoyed cooling off in the creek despite the very low water levels. At the moment it is hard to believe that previously this camping area and the road in was destroyed by flooding and was closed for a very long time before it could be reopened again.

Emu Creek, Benarkin State Forest
In the morning, we set out to look for the walking trail that links the two campgrounds. Eventually we found some trail markers and a very overgrown track and we pushed our way through the meter-high grass before we gave up and conceded that the track was no longer usable. Some people camping near the trail had seen two deer in the early morning; a large stag and a doe.

I haven’t had hayfever for years but there was an abundance of seeding grass and weeds in the area and I developed hayfever with a vengeance. The whole campground was probably getting sick of my loud sneezing. Fortunately, we eventually remembered that we had anti-histamine in our comprehensive first-aid kit. The upside of all these flowering weeds was that there were large numbers of butterflies fluttering around Emu Creek. Some of the butterflies we saw were Monarchs, Lesser Wanderers, Orchard Swallowtails, Common Crows, Blue Tigers, Meadow Argus and Glasswings. The Lesser Wanderers were very common and I spent quite a lot of time stalking them in the hope of getting a photo with increasing frustration until eventually succeeding.
Lesser Wanderer Danaus chrysippus and Meadow Argus Junonia villida
There were quite a few moths about, particularly in the amenities blocks and on our van awning.
Granny's Cloak Moth Speirdonia spectans and The Two-spots Tiger Moth Asota plagiata
The creek area was alive with dragonflies.
Blue Skimmer, Scarlet Percher, Black-headed Skimmer, Graphic Flutterer, Australian Emperor.
After most of the campers had left on Sunday the goannas came prowling through the campground and I saw a large Bearded Dragon sunning itself. We also saw several hares in the early morning and evening.

Bearded Dragon Pogona barbata
One night we wandered up to the Day Use Area, where it was darker than the campground, and enjoyed watching the night sky. A few bats passed overhead and there were large fire-flies dancing about displaying their luminescence. A couple of velvet geckos were prowling the walls of the amenities block and we saw a possum high in a tree.


Robust Velvet Gecko Oedura robusta
Unfortunately,there were lots of young canetoads in the campground but we could hear a chorus of frogs every night so we made our way down to the creek to look for frogs. Seemingly at our feet, there were very loud croaking noises. In fact, the noise was so deafening up close that I felt we should have been wearing ear protection! After sloshing about and peering into the dark we finally found the perpetrators; dozens of Rocketfrogs. It is hard to believe that small frogs of only 40 cm were making all that racket.


Striped Rocketfrog Litoria nasuta
We were fortunate to be camping next to a couple who were keen photographers and knowledgeable birders so we had a bit of fun comparing our birding list tally.
Laughing Kookaburra and Australian King Parrot
Bird List:
Australian Brush-turkey, Little Black Cormorant, Pacific Black Duck, Purple Swamphen, White-faced Heron, Striated Heron, Sulphur Crested Cockatoo, Scaly-breasted Lorikeet, Australian King Parrot, Eastern Pale-headed Rosella, Channel-billed Cuckoo, Laughing Kookaburra, Dollarbird, Red-backed Fairy Wren, Blue-faced Honeyeater, Noisy Miner, Lewin's Honeyeater, Willie Wagtail, Magpie Lark, Spangled Drongo, Australasian Figbird, Black-faced Cuckoo-shrike, Ground Cuckoo-shrike, Grey Butcherbird, Australian Magpie, Torresian Crow, Welcome Swallow, Double-barred Finch, Red-browed Finch. We saw doves on the drive in and every morning at the campground; we couldn’t make a positive ID but as they were small and had a hint of blue-grey we thought they may have been Diamond Doves.


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Peach Trees Camping Area, Jimna State Forest, QLD.

January 23, 2016, 1:44 am
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Peach Trees Camping Area.
Peach Trees is 43 km north of Kilcoy on a sealed road with the last 3 km a good unsealed section into the campground. The first thing you notice about Peach Trees is the number of kangaroos lazing about the grassy camping area. Pets are not permitted. There are four new amenities blocks with flushing toilets but no showers. Non-potable water taps and fire pits are scattered throughout the camp ground and there are also a few tables and wood-fired BBQ’s. There is Optus phone reception but no Telstra reception. Standard QLD National Park fees apply. Either pre-book before arriving or there is a public pay phone near the first amenities block. I must admit that I stood in front of the pay phone and realized that I have no idea how to use a pay phone or what coins it takes!

Pay Phone at Peach Trees Camping Area
The Day Use Area is a cordoned off section within the campground which has tables and BBQ’s.

Peach Trees Day Use Area.
We took care to set up in an area with good shade as the temperature was predicted to reach 36 C while we were there. We saw more birds in the first two hours at Peach Trees than we had for our whole stay at Benarkin State Forest. Our site overlooked the path on the other side of Yabba Creek and we were pleasantly surprised to see Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoos, Satin Bowerbirds and Bell Miners from our camp. Large numbers of Sulphur Crested Cockatoos were flying overhead.

Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoos
Bell Miner
There were less butterflies here than at Benarkin but they were mostly the same types: Wanderer, Lesser Wanderer, Glasswing, Common Crow, Evening Brown and Orchard Swallowtail.

Wanderer Danaus plexippus
There are three walking tracks leaving from the campground: Yabba Creek Circuit, Araucaria Circuit and Eugenia Circuit. We also liked to walk to the causeway just before the entrance to the camp ground. The first morning we walked them all in one continuous circuit and on the following days we just redid our favourite parts.

Causeway: The causeway proved a great spot to check out in the early morning or late afternoon. We regularly saw both Azure and Sacred Kingfishers fishing above the creek and there were lots of juvenile Eastern Water Dragons sunning themselves at the waters edge. We saw many small birds in the brush near the causeway.


Azure Kingfishers at the causeway.
Eugenia Circuit is a 2.5 km, Class 4 walk.
Starting near the entry to the camp ground this walk climbs steadily up a shale track to a lookout above Yabba Creek before descending again. The track crosses the creek, which was completely dry at this point, and returns alongside the creek before emerging on the other side of the causeway at the entrance to the campground. 

One of the many Sulphur-crested Cockatoos seen on the walk.
Red-browed Finch
We remember doing this walk after heavy flooding the last time we were here and there are still giant piles of debris perched high above the creek standing testimony to the awesome power of flooding.

Raft of debris left high above Yabba Creek.
The second time we did this walk we were thrilled to see the golden flash of a male Regent Bowerbird flying past us three times. We back tracked a bit and found him and a female sitting in a tree. On our way out the path was blocked by a Red-bellied Black but it quickly departed when it decided that staying still wasn't going to make us go away.

Red-bellied Black Snake.
Yabba Creek Circuit is a 700m, Class 3 walk. 
Yabba Creek Circuit is a pleasant easy walk with the added bonus of a small swing bridge at one end and a walk bridge at the other end. There are plenty of birds on the walk and we saw kangaroos using the path. We walked this circuit several times at different times of the day during our stay.

Swinging Bridge over Yabba Creek
Foot bridge over Yabba Creek
This very young Brush Turkey was seeking shelter up a tree which is typical behaviour for Brush Turkeys every evening. We also saw a Wonga Pigeon up a tree whereas previously we have always seen them on the ground.
Juvenile Australian Brush Turkey and Wonga Pigeon.
Black-faced Monarchs, Eastern Spinebills and Brown Cuckoo-Doves were easy to spot on the trail.

Black-faced Monarch
Brown Cuckoo-Doves
Araucaria Circuit is a 4.5 km, Class 3 walk.
This walk starts just over the swing bridge. At first it climbs through a dry eucalypt forest before entering a cool vine forest of young Hoop and Bunya Pine then returning via the eucalypt forest again.

Araucaria Circuit
Scarlet Honeyeater on the Araucaria Circuit
When we left Peachtrees Camping Area we stopped at the Jimna Fire tower for a quick look. 

Jimna Fire Tower

Bird List: 
Australian Brush Turkey, Australian Wood Duck, Nankeen Night Heron, Topknot Pigeon, Brown Cuckoo-Dove, Wonga Pigeon, Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Rainbow Lorikeet, Australian King Parrot, Pale-headed Rosella, Fan-tailed Cuckoo, Pheasant Coucal, Tawny Frogmouth, Dollarbird, Azure Kingfisher, Sacred Kingfisher, Laughing Kookaburra, White-throated Treecreeper, Variegated Fairy-wren, White-browed Scrubwren, Yellow-throated Scrubwren, Brown Gerygone, Brown Thornbill, Noisy Friarbird, Blue-faced Honeyeater, Bell Miner, Noisy Miner, Lewin's Honeyeater, White-naped Honeyeater, New Holland Honeyeater, Eastern Spinebill, Scarlet Honeyeater, Eastern Whipbird, Eastern Yellow Robin, Grey Shrike-thrush, Golden Whistler, Grey Fantail, Rufous Fantail, Willie Wagtail, Leaden Flycatcher, Black-faced Monarch, Magpie-lark, Spangled Drongo, Olive-backed oriole, Australasian Figbird, Satin Bowerbird, Regent Bowerbird, Varied Triller, Grey Butcherbird, Australian Magpie, Pied Currawong, Torresian Crow, Welcome Swallow, Red-browed Finch, Silvereye, Bassian Thrush.

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Linville, QLD

January 29, 2016, 6:11 pm
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On our way to Benarkin State Forest we detoured 7 km off the D'Aguilar Highway to Linville to have a quick look. The village of Linville offers a free camp to travelers alongside the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail. This grassy camping area is nicely located opposite the Linville Hotel which has evening meals Wednesday to Saturday and lunches Wednesday to Sunday. There is also a local store for incidentals. As it was very hot when we looked and there is very little shade available we thought it would be nice to return in the winter and camp there while we walk or cycle a section of the Rail Trail. Unfortunately, I don't have any photos of Linville or the camping area.

A further 7 km past Linville there is a free camp alongside the upper reaches of the Brisbane River. I believe this camping area is on private land and there is a sign at the camping area asking campers to take their rubbish with them when they leave. We were pleased to see that campers had done the right thing which helps keep places like this open. The camping area is quite large but has only a few open sites amongst the trees. When we visited, during the January school holidays, one family camping in a camper trailer had the place to themselves. There are no facilities provided. Just past the camping area there is a causeway over the Brisbane River and this is a popular spot for swimming.


The free camping area 7 km past Linville on the Brisbane River.
Having a look at the camp ground.
Steep drop-off to the Brisbane River from the campground.
People enjoying a swim in the Brisbane River next to the free camp
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National Park Odyssey

February 6, 2016, 5:46 pm
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So many good things have been coming together lately around National Park Odyssey that I thought it might interest readers to hear a little bit about the background story.

Our passion is for wildlife, bushwalking and national parks. Being a firm believer in the concept that what you think about is what you will end up with we started actively pursuing our goal with the expectation that we would be able to do more extended travel from 2016. 

We felt that it would be good to record our travels this time because we have traveled extensively around the world in the past and it is largely just a blur with some great memories and appalling photos. We wanted to be able to keep in contact with family and friends and show people what we actually see and do at the places we go. Blogging seemed to be a perfect fit. I signed up for a 2 hr workshop on blogging at the local library and discovered that I had no idea what they were talking about. I had been enjoying reading the blog Wild BNE by Christian Perrin for some time so I decided that I would ask him a couple of questions as he has a friendly and approachable style on his blog. Christian was very helpful and supportive and before long I had the blog up and running. One of the nice things I discovered about blogging is just how friendly the blogging community is. The blogging journey has been a very satisfying ride and if you are thinking of starting a blog then just start and if you need help you should probably ask someone other than me how to go about it.

The Dieng Plateau, Central Java, Indonesia. Just one of the many places we have traveled to overseas.
Christian messaged me that he was looking forward to seeing the National Park Odyssey Facebook page, well that threw the spanner in the works, I hadn’t even contemplated a Facebook page. This may seem strange in this day and age but none of my family are on Facebook, (except our two sons and they don’t want me as their Facebook friend!). To this day, I struggle a bit with what to put on the Facebook page because it seems very repetitive to put photos from the blog on the Facebook page but I’ve recently come to realise that hardly any of our Facebook followers actually read the blogs! As I write this the Facebook page sits at 99 “likers” and I’m anxiously waiting for someone to put me out of my misery and become my 100th "liker". Apparently once you have the magic number of 100 it is possible to get more information about your page and I need all the help I can get. (Note: When I took a screenshot of our Facebook page for this blog we had 101 "Likers", we're in the big time now!)

101 "Likers"
Blogging has been a bit of a catalyst for expanding our social media platform. We now have an Instagram Account of about 700 followers and a Google Plus account which has had over 200,000 views! Christian really should have warned me!

Our most popular photo so far in 2016 on Instagram: Crossing at Little Yabba Creek at Charlie Moreland Campground
You might notice that in my list of our passions I didn’t mention photography. Neither of us are photographers and it is such a shame because we have done and seen some interesting things in our lives and it would be nice to have a better photographic record to refer to. Our solution was to buy better camera gear and start practicing in the hope that by the time we started the actual Odyssey we would be a bit more competent. After all, blogs are a bit boring without photos and we really wanted to photograph our National Park Odyssey. So far this strategy seems to be working fairly well because one of the great surprises about starting the blog is how many complements we get about the photos.

Some time ago we were approached by Gillian Duncan who wanted to use some of our photos in an upcoming bushwalking book. “Family Bushwalks in South East Queensland” by Mark Roberts and Gillian Roberts has now been published and we can proudly look at our photos in the book. If you had told us one year ago that we would have photos in a book we would have laughed.

Some of our photos in "Family Bushwalks in South East Queensland" by Mark Roberts and Gillian Duncan
We have purchased our dream rig of a BT-50 and Kimberley Karavan and completed a few shakedown trips in preparation for our new adventures. We still have some work and family commitments this year so we will be returning to the Sunshine Coast between roadtrips but we will be able to extend our trips as time goes on. Due to the very nature of our intended destinations we will often be out of internet reception but we can't wait to share our National Park Odyssey with you!

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Overnight at Girraween National Park, QLD.

February 22, 2016, 7:35 pm
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Our National Park Odyssey got off to a late start so we decided to overnight at Girraween National Park. Lesson number one; ditch the plan!


Castle Rock Camping Area, Girraween National Park
I have covered Girraween extensively in six parts starting here but I don't want to leave out our first night so I'll post up a few photos. It is amazing what you can see in a short time at Girraween. We quickly set up and went for a late afternoon walk.


Girraween Information Centre
Crimson Rosella, Eastern Spinebill, Yellow-tufted Honeyeater, Common Bronzewing, Superb Fairy-wren.









Giant Bull Ant Myrmecia brevinoda
Bye-bye.

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Girraween National Park, QLD, to Boundary Falls, Gibraltar Range National Park, NSW.

February 23, 2016, 6:00 pm
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In the morning, we had a quick look around Castle Rock Campground for birds before packing up.

Buff-rumped Thornbill
White-eared Honeyeater
White-throated Treecreeper
We were a couple of days late but we were finally on our way to explore the National Parks off the Gwydir Highway in NSW. 

About 10 km south of Tenterfield, Bluff Rock looms over the New England Highway. I took a quick photo on my phone but we didn't stop. Later, I did a goggle search about the rock to see if there is a walk there but instead I discovered that 150 years ago a group of Aboriginal people were thrown from the bluff as punishment for "attacking shepherds and sheep". There is a free overnight rest area with a memorial at the base of the bluff and I have resolved to stop and explore the area next time we get the chance.

Bluff Rock.

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Boundary Falls Campground, Gibraltar Range National Park, NSW: Part 1.

February 26, 2016, 3:04 am
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Boundary Falls
The turnoff to Boundary Falls Campground in the northern section of Gibraltar Range National Park is about 63 km from Glen Innes along the Gwydir Highway or, if coming from the other direction, about 97 km west of Grafton. The forest entry is an unsealed, all weather, 2WD road. 

The campground officially has 6 large campsites but we found that there were 8 sites all with their own table and fire ring equipped with some camp cooking equipment.There is only one pit toilet and one tap at the campground. The tank water is to be boiled before use. A small amount of wood was available when we arrived. We didn't have phone or internet reception. There is plenty of room for big rigs. 


Boundary Falls Campground.
Boundary Falls is a self-register campground and no bookings are taken. Fees are $6 per adult per night and there is an $8 vehicle fee per day. We are now the proud owners of a two year NSW Parks Pass which is displayed on our vehicle so we don’t have to pay the daily vehicle fee. We ordered the pass online and it took 15 days to arrive in the post. 

Boundary Falls Campground Facilities: Fireplace and table in every site, pit toilet, woodshed, tank water and tap.
There is also a horse campground as Boundary Falls is on the Bicentennial National Trail. However, we saw no evidence of horses during our stay.

The campground is on the site of an old sawmill and there are various pieces of old milling equipment scattered around behind the campsites.

Equipment remaining from Wades Sawmill.
We were delighted to see that Russet-tailed/Bassian Thrush seemed quite common around the campground. (Note: We have seen Bassian Thrush before but not Russet-tailed Thrush and as they are so similar I don't feel confident to identify which bird we were seeing.) The information board in the picnic area indicated that Spotted-quail Thrush are also in the area but we did not see any. A Pied Currawong kept an eye on our every move at our campsite. Unfortunately, there were a few March flies ready to bite at every opportunity. 

Pied Currawong
Russet-tailed/ Bassian Thrush
We came to Boundary Falls from Girraween National Park and took a shortcut through Iron Knob Road which bypasses Glen Innes. Iron knob Road is sealed but the middle section was fairly bumpy. The down side of not going through Glen Innes was that we didn't get to stop at the Information Centre for any brochures on Gibraltar Range and Washpool National Parks. One other couple were already set up so we asked them if they knew where the trail-heads for the walks were and they kindly let us take phone photos of their maps. While we were doing this another couple arrived to set up their caravan and they asked me if I was trying to find phone reception. When I explained that we had turned up without any brochures or maps they kindly gave me a NSW Parks brochure for the area. Time after time, we have found that meeting fellow travelers is one of the highlights of being on the road.

Close to the campground there is a Day Use Area with parking, electric BBQ’s and a pit toilet. The walks leave from the Day Use Area.

On the first afternoon we did a couple of short walks:
Lyrebird Falls Walking Track is a medium grade, 2.2 km return walk. The track is along a wide fire trail through strands of Sydney Blue Gums to a lookout with views over Boundary Creek to Lyrebird Falls. As we were returning from the lookout we heard a car alarm followed by a Whipbird crack, then a chainsaw noise followed by a whole repertoire of bird songs. We stood entranced listening to this amazing performance by a Superb Lyrebird quite close to us. Before we came to our wits and thought to record the sounds the performance stopped.


Lyrebird Falls
View from Lyrebird Falls lookout area.
We saw a Land Mullet beside the track.

Land Mullet Egernia major
Boundary Falls: On our way back we did the short walk to Boundary Falls. This walk may be short but it descends steeply down flights of steps. There is a rest area halfway down but there is no view of the falls from there and no seat. At the bottom there is a crystal clear creek and the waterfall flows into a beautiful natural pool (first photo in this blog).
Rest area half way down and steep steps to Boundary Falls.
Boundary Creek
We celebrated our first night of camping in NSW in our new van, with a nice wine beside the fire.

Camping Life

Bird List:
Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo, Australian King Parrot, Laughing Kookaburra, White-throated Treecreeper, Superb Fairy-wren, Brown Gerygone, Brown Thornbill, Eastern Yellow Robin, Rufous Whistler, Grey Fantail, Rufous Fantail, Black-faced Monarch, Pied Currawong, Red-browed Finch, Russet-tailed/Bassian Thrush (see note in the text above). We heard a Lyrebird doing excellent mimicry.

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Duffer Falls Walk and the World Heritage Walk. Gibraltar Range National Park, NSW: Part 2.

February 27, 2016, 3:54 pm
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Duffer Falls
The World Heritage Walk is a 45 km circuit through Gibraltar and Washpool National Parks. As we would be staying at three campgrounds close to the route we planned on walking sections of the World Heritage Walk from each campground. The first section we walked was from Boundary Falls Campground to Duffer Falls. We had difficulty finding the trail-head for Duffer Falls because the signs in the Day Use Area only indicated the Boundary Falls and Lyrebird Falls Walks but we eventually found the World Heritage Walk behind the campground and a short way along this walk we found a sign for Duffer Falls.

Duffer Falls Walk is a medium grade, 7 km return walk from Boundary Falls Campground, along a section of the World Heritage Walk. Most of the walk is an easy stroll along a fire trail but the last 700 meters is on an unformed track that drops away to Duffer Falls.

World Heritage Walk section of the Duffer Falls Walk.
The last 700 m is on a small descending track.
First we had to ford a creek but we were able to do this without getting our boots wet. 

Creek crossing at the start of the walk.
The walk took us through a uniquely Australian environment of gum trees, grass trees and termite mounds.


There were distinctive small she-oaks and holy on the clamber down to the falls.

We didn’t see a lot of birds on the walk but we saw several of the ever present Thrushes. Rainbow Lorikeets were busy riotously feeding high up in flowering gum trees. We heard a Lyrebird doing a mimicry rendition but this bird didn’t have the same mastery as the bird we had heard the previous day on the Lyrebird Falls Track.
Rufous Whistler (male), Brown Thornbill, Red-browed Finch (juvenile), Red-browed Treecreeper (female).

A Nobby Dragon scuttled away too fast for a photograph. We walked up to a culvert to peer into the water for tadpoles and accidentally stepped close to a small Carpet Python in the process of uncoiling.

Carpet Python 
Duffer Falls is a series of beautiful falls and cascades that drop away over an escarpment to Boundary Creek in the Demon Fault Line. We sat on a rock in front of a picturesque cascade and had a picnic before exploring more of the falls.

Our picnic spot at the middle cascade at Duffer Falls.
An upper section of Duffer Falls.
Duffer Falls dropping over the escarpment and out of sight.
View from the escarpment.
There were lots of Eastern Water Skinks and Sundews amongst the rocks around Duffer Falls.

On our return to the campground we found a note from the caravanners camped nearby to let us know that there was a large tree over the exit road and that they would inform the ranger as soon as they could get phone reception. We had heard a loud crash during the night but had assumed that the tree had fallen in the forest and thought nothing more of it. By the time we returned from our walk to Duffer Falls the ranger had already been and cleared the tree. We were amazed that these lovely people, the same ones that had given us a brochure of the area, would take the time to leave a note for us when they must have been having a difficult day as it would not have been easy to reverse their caravan back to the campground! We always seem to meet such lovely people on the road.



Bird List:
Wonga Pigeon, Rainbow Lorikeets, Red-browed Treecreeper, Brown Thornbill, Eastern Yellow Robin, Rufous Whistler, Grey Fantail, Rufous Fantail, Red-browed Finch, Russet-tailed/Bassian? Thrush. Heard: Superb Lyrebird.

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Raspberry Lookout, Gibraltar Range National Park, NSW.

February 28, 2016, 11:38 pm
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Raspberry Lookout is on the southern side of the Gwydir Highway; not far from Boundary Falls Campground. The access road is a short, narrow, sealed road. There is a small parking area but no room for RV's. As this is in Gibraltar Range National Park there is an $8 vehicle access fee. There is a toilet, a covered picnic table and a viewing area. Geocachers will be delighted to know that there is an excellent geocache located here. Raspberry Lookout is named after the edible native raspberry that is common in the area.






Leaving Gibraltar Range National Park and moving to Washpool National Park.

We had heard Superb Lyrebirds constantly while camping and walking around Boundary Falls Campground but it wasn't until we were leaving that we finally saw any. After rewalking the Lyrebird Falls Walking Track in a final attempt to see any before moving to Washpool National Park we returned to the campground to pack up and there was a pair casually wandering around the campground, typical! 



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Bellbird Campground, Washpool National Park, New South Wales: Part 1.

February 29, 2016, 5:16 pm
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We found a lovely site at Bellbird Campground; bordered on three sides by young Coachwood Trees and with plenty of sun from the front for our solar panels.

Bellbird Campground, Washpool National Park
We set off to explore the campground on foot and discovered that the only other campers were near the camp kitchen busily engaged in screen printing a large quantity of Tibetan Flags. We thought this was an inappropriate use of a National Park drinking water supply. They didn't appear too happy to see us wandering around with our cameras and they packed up and left early the next morning. We were grateful for this because we aren't really into listening to monotonous music beats and smelling great wafts of pungent smoke while sitting in a National Park. It wasn't until later that it occurred to us that a more serious side effect of what they were doing was the disposal of the dye water.

Camp Kitchen, Bellbird Campground
Lyrebird Walk:  An easy 200 m concrete path leading from the campground to Coachwood Picnic Area. The Lyrebird Walk lived up to its name as we saw Superb Lyrebirds scratching in the leaf litter alongside the path. We also saw Australian Logrunners flicking through the leaf litter.

Coachwood Picnic Area
Entry to the Coombadjha Walk
The Coombadjha Walk is an easy 400 m path through lush rainforest from Coachwood Picnic Area to Coachwood Pool. There is a viewing platform with steps into the shallow pool where swimming is permitted.

Coachwood Pool
There were lots of different types of bracken and ferns on the walk.


We continued on from the pool via a 1.4 km loop back to Coachwood Picnic Area. This is a pleasant walk alongside Coombadjha Creek, however, after the platform the track becomes uneven and it is necessary to step over rocks and tree roots. 

BirdList:
Australian King Parrot, Crimson Rosella, Superb Lyrebird, Yellow-throated Scrubwren, Logrunner, Rufous Whistler, Satin Bowerbird, Pied Currawong, Bassian/Russet-tailed Thrush?

Washpool National Park Details:
Getting There: on the Gwydir Highway 75 km from Glen Innes or 85 km from Grafton.
From the turnoff an unsealed, 2WD, all weather road descends 4 km to Bellbird Campground.
Bellbird Campground:
Number of Sites: 15
Types of Camping: tents, camper trailers, small caravans and camping beside vehicles.
Camping Fees: $6 per night per adult (16 years+). $3.50 per night per child (5-15 years). Infants (0-4 years) free.
Vehicle Fee: $8 per day, or buy a vehicle pass.
Bookings: No bookings. Self register and place the correct money into provided envelopes.
Facilities: There are bio toilets, tank water with some taps throughout the campground, and a kitchen shelter with BBQ’s and brochures. Each campsite has a table and fireplace with wood. 
Contacts: Glen Innes 02 6739 0700 Contact Hours: 8.30am - 4.30pm Monday to Friday.
Website: http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Washpool-National-Park
Of Interest: Maneuvering into the sites with a caravan or trailer can be challenging. Forest setting. Superb Lyrebirds and Yellow-throated Scrubwrens are common in the campground. Leeches.
Alert: 4WD access to North Washpool (Washpool Rest Area), has been closed long term due to a bridge being washed away at the junction of Washpool Creek and Collum Collum Road.

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Washpool National Park, Part 2. Washpool Walking Track.

March 2, 2016, 3:46 am
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The Washpool Track
Washpool Walking Track: a medium grade 9 km loop track.
The Washpool Track leaves from the carpark at the end of Coachwood Road. We walked from Bellbird Campground and we took all the short sidetracks along the way so we estimate we walked approximately 10.5 km all up.

The track led us through Coachwood Forest, Rainforest and Dry Sclerophyll forest. A feature of the walk was the magnificent trees we passed.

Sydney Bluegum
Red Cedar
Looking straight up into the tree canopy. Crows Nest Fern.

We heard the distinctive sound of a flock of Topnot Pigeons and looked up to see them feeding high above us. 

Topknot Pigeon
The walk is well signposted which made it easy to gauge our progress. 


We stopped at The Summit Falls for a well earned picnic.

Summit Falls
Before long we were crossing Coombadjha Creek and making our way back to the campground.

Crossing Coombadjha Creek

Bird List:
Topknot pigeon, Rainbow Lorikeets, Australian King Parrot, Laughing Kookaburra, Superb Lyrebird, White-throated Treecreeper, Brown Thornbill, Logrunner, Rufous Whistler, Rufous Fantail,  Bassian Thrush. 

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Granite Lookout, Washpool National Park, Part 3.

March 2, 2016, 3:11 pm
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Granite Lookout is in Washpool National Park and is only a short distance off the Gwydir Highway. There is a parking area and picnic area with a vehicle fee of $8. It is only a short walk to a great view.

Granite Lookout
View of Old Mans Hat from Granite Lookout
One of the interesting rocks at Granite Lookout


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Bellbird Campground Wildlife, Washpool National Park, Part 4.

March 3, 2016, 7:48 pm
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We just loved  Bellbird Campground in Washpool National Park. It was a pleasure to just sit in our campsite and be visited by such wonderful wildlife.

This beautiful Blue-speckled Forest Skink (Murray's Skink) even made an appearance.

Blue-speckled Forest Skink, Eulamprus murrayi
Superb Lyrebird
Yellow-throated Scrubwren
Satin Bowerbird, male
Satin Bowerbird, female, eating from a clump of comfrey that was in our campsite.
We had to watch our dinner carefully when this Pied Currawong was about.
One evening we went for a walk around the campground and came across a feisty little Golden-crowned Snake. That made us think twice about wandering around in our thongs.

Golden-crowned Snake, Cacophis squamulosus
We saw a very confident Brush Tail Possum wandering through our campsite in the evenings. Every night there was a constant pitter-patter of dropped flowers on our roof as two animals were feeding in a tree canopy high above our van. We also spotted a small animal, a bit bigger than a guinea pig, with a grey upper body and lightly coloured underneath and roundish ears in the bushes next to our van. It moved like an Australian native but we don't know what it was.

These experiences are why we like to camp rather than day visit, where possible.

Information about Boundary Falls Campground and Washpool National Park are covered here in Part 1.
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Mulligans Campground, Gibraltar Range National Park, New South Wales, Part 1.

March 5, 2016, 12:18 pm
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We moved the short distance from Washpool National Park to the southern section of Gibraltar Range National Park. From the Gwydir Highway there is about 10 km of unsealed road to Mulligans Campground. There is a narrow bridge just past Platypus Picnic Area.



The sites at Mulligans Campground are listed as suitable for caravans under 6 meters and it can be a bit tricky to maneuver into the sites. When we arrived there were no other campers so we had plenty of sites to choose from. A few other campers arrived during the afternoon. The facilities at Mulligans are excellent as there are flushing toilets and cold showers as well as laundry tubs and every site has a table and a water tap.

After being in the rainforest in Washpool National Park it was quite a shock to experience the very dry heat on this side of the range. We were also set upon by small black, biting, flies. After setting up we had intended exploring the campground and going for a walk but as it was about 36C we decide to wait a bit longer for it to cool down. Before long some ominous clouds appeared and our van got to experience its first hail storm. Fortunately the hail was small, and although it rained hard for a short while, there wasn't any strong wind so our solar panels and awnings survived intact.


Little Dandahra Creek Walk: 13 km return, easy/medium grade.
This walk covers part of the 45 km World Heritage Walk.

We headed off along the Little Dandahra Creek Walk a fair bit later than we had planned. We were pursued relentlessly by the small black flies we encountered in the campground.




We were delighted to see that there were still Christmas Bells flowering alongside the track and were amused to watch the antics of Eastern Spinebills feeding from the flowers.



There were lots of butterflies along the track. We saw Evening Browns, Meadow Argus and Orchard Swallowtails. 



We took the time to sit on the banks of Little Dandahra Creek as the late afternoon seemed like a promising time of day to observe platypus but we were out of luck and decided to return to camp before it got too dark.
White-browed Scrubwren, New England Honeyeater, Grey Fantail, Varied Sittella.

Bird List: Rainbow Lorikeet, Crimson Rosella, Varied Sittella, White-throated Treecreeper, Lewin's Honeyeater, Eastern Yellow Robin, Golden Whistler, Rufous Whistler, Grey Fantail, Fufous Fantail, Satin Bowerbird, Pied Currawong, Red-browed Finch, Bassian Thrush.

Amenities Block with cold showers.
Gibraltar Range National Park (Southern Section) Details:
Getting There:  The turn off to the southern section is 68 km east of Glenn Innes or 92 km west of Grafton along the Gwydir Highway. The access road to Mulligans Campground is a 10 km unsealed, 2WD, all weather road. Narrow bridge just past Platypus Picnic Area.
Mulligans Campground:
Number of Sites:  15
Types of Camping:  tents, motorhomes, small caravans and camping beside vehicles.
Camping Fees: $6 per night per adult (16 years+). $3.50 per night per child (5-15 years). Infants (0-4 years) free. (Note: this may rise to $10 per night per adult.)
Vehicle Fee: $8 per day, or buy a vehicle pass.
Bookings: No bookings. Self-register and place the correct money into provided envelopes.
Facilities:  Amenities Block with cold showers, flushing toilets and laundry tubs, disability showers and toilets, table and water tap in every campsite, firewood.
Contacts: Glen Innes 02 6739 0700 Contact Hours: 8.30am - 4.30pm Monday to Friday.
Website: http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/camping-and-accommodation/campgrounds/Mulligans-campground/Visitor-Info
http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/gibraltar-range-national-parkOf Interest: Mulligans Hut. Christmas Bells in summer, Gibraltar Waratah in spring. Small black, biting, flies. 
Alert: Narrow bridge.
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Mulligans Hut. Gibraltar Range National Park, New South Wales, Part 2.

March 9, 2016, 3:21 am
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Mulligans Campground, or Mulligans Hut Campground as it is sometimes called, gets its name from some interesting history in the area.

Information sourced from a NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service sign near Mulligans Hut:
William Mulligan (1862-1953) was from a local grazing family. He was an engineer and he proposed an hydroelectric scheme for the area. The scheme was never developed but he and his partners built two concrete weirs to measure water flow and they can still be seen today.


Concrete Weir
Eastern Water Dragon at the weir.
William Mulligan built two slab walled huts here. In the 1960's a fire destroyed the smaller hut and damaged the other. The National Parks and Wildlife Service rebuilt the hut in 1968.


Mulligans Hut
Even if you are not camping at Mulligans Campground, Mulligans Hut is a nice place for a day visit. It is a scenic area with tables and fire rings at the waters edge. There are even two tables and a fireplace inside the hut.
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Fern Tree Forest Walk, Mulligans Campground, Gibraltar Range National Park, Part 3.

March 12, 2016, 1:41 pm
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Fern Tree Forest Walk covers a section of the 45 km Gibraltar-Washpool World Heritage Walk.
Fern Tree Forest Walk is a medium grade, 8 km circuit.

We made our way from Mulligans Campground to Mulligans Hut and the start of the walk. It wasn't long before we came to the turnoff to The Needles but we decided to do that leg of the walk another time and continued on. The track was bordered by a lush green understory of ferns before leading through a fairytale avenue of Fern Trees.



 

However, there is a lot more to the Fern Tree Forest Walk. We continued on through a dryer forest of eucalypts and Grass Trees before climbing across granite with magnificent views.



Plants along the track.
The last leg of the walk follows alongside Little Dandahra Creek where we saw a number of butterflies such as Orchard Swallowtails, Meadow Argus and Evening Browns.


We thoroughly enjoyed this walk and its constantly changing scenery.
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